In a bid to combat climate change, Scotland has taken a decisive step forward by implementing new regulations affecting the heating systems of new buildings. From April 1st, 2024, the landscape of home heating in Scotland underwent a significant transformation, particularly about wood-burning stoves.

The crux of this change lies in the April 2024 version of the Domestic Technical Handbook issued by the Scottish Government, (Mandatory Standard 6.11), which mandates that every new building must be designed and constructed to eschew direct emission heating systems. However, this prohibition comes with nuances. While wood-burning stoves are not outright banned in Scotland, the new rules exclusively target new-build homes, disallowing the installation of wood-burning stoves therein.

“Every building must be designed and constructed in such a way that the means by which space within the building is heated or cooled and by which hot water is made available in the building is not by means of a direct emission heating system. Limitation: This standard does not apply to: a) alterations to, or extension of, a pre-2024 building; b) emergency heating; c) heating provided solely for the purpose of frost protection.“

Domestic Technical Handbook issued by the Scottish Government, April 2024

Moreover, even existing buildings undergoing substantial conversion work are not spared from scrutiny. The regulations dictate the removal of wood-burning stoves in such cases, especially if the existing heat source is located within the portion of the building undergoing conversion.

Zero Carbon Buildings Minister Patrick Harvie underscores that exemptions exist for emergency heating systems, albeit sparingly. The regulations outline stringent criteria for exemption, making it unlikely for a typical dwelling to meet the bar. Emergency heating via wood-burning stoves becomes a consideration only under specific circumstances, primarily in larger or more complex buildings where portable solutions are unfeasible.

But what about existing homeowners? Those fortunate enough to own homes built before April 1, 2024, need not fret. The new regulations do not apply to such homes, except in cases where the building was initially constructed or converted to meet the 2024 New Building Heat Standard. Hence, existing homeowners in Scotland retain the liberty to install wood-burning stoves.

However, there’s a caveat. Developers should be cognisant of future requirements, especially concerning zero direct emissions heating (ZDEH) systems. The regulations hint at a potential future mandate to install ZDEH systems before 2045, prompting consideration for cost-effective installations during alterations or extensions of pre-2024 buildings.

In response to speculations regarding the ramifications of these new regulations, the Scottish Government issued a comprehensive statement. Emphasizing the need to address carbon emissions from heating, the government highlighted the consultation processes that preceded the implementation of the New Build Heat Standard. This standard aims to eliminate climate emissions from new buildings by prohibiting the use of polluting heating systems, including wood-burning stoves.

Importantly, existing homes remain unaffected by the new standard, ensuring that homeowners can continue to use wood-burning stoves.

In essence, Scotland’s wood-burning stove ban marks a pivotal moment in the country’s journey towards sustainability. While it imposes restrictions on new buildings, it also signals a concerted effort to mitigate climate change and transition towards cleaner heating alternatives.

The end of winter is nigh and very soon, it will be a wonderful time of year for garden jobs. The weather is starting to warm up, the evenings are longer as well as lighter, and plants are starting to bloom. It’s the perfect time to get out in your garden and carry out those long-awaited choirs around your space.

Whether you’re an experienced gardener or a beginner, along with approximately 27 million keen others, there are plenty of garden jobs you can do over the spring to get your garden in top shape.

We’ve thought about it here at Forest Master HQ and picked five that we’d suggest you look to do in time for the warmer seasons.

Pruning

Now that we’re well into spring, there is no better time to tackle those pruning jobs around trees, shrubs and other plants around the garden.

This would involve removing any dead or diseased branches or plants and clipping away any outgrowth that’s either crossing over each other or growing in a direction that it shouldn’t be. It’s key not to over-prune as this could result in both damaging and preventing your plant from growing properly.

Weeding

When it comes to weeding, this will be one of the most repetitive jobs you will do around the garden but can easily be managed – depending on the size of your garden. 

It’s key, when it comes to removing weeds, that both plant and root are removed – this prevents them from growing back. 

Using products can also cause harm to your garden, but there are many different resources that offer ways to manage weeding around your space safely, whilst protecting the environment, at the same time.      

Mulching

Mulching may sound like it’s something to go straight into your garden waste bin, but it has its uses that can help create a healthy environment for your plants and trees. 

Sprinkling, mulched wood chips, straw, leaves and even cardboard can help retain moisture and suppress weed growth around your garden, leaving your plants to grow healthy and in fantastic condition over Spring and Summer. 

Best of all, we could help even more with your Mulching by looking here. 

Planting

This is part of Spring that we feel most gardeners will be tackling and focusing on – planting. 

Introducing new flowers, trees, and vegetables will be high on many people’s lists, as well as tidying up, as they almost run to their local garden store to pick out the seeds, pots and packs they will be giving most of their attention to.

There’s plenty to choose from, and it all depends on what mood you’re in or what colour you’d like your garden to focus on. The Nation do have favourites that you could look into such as, Sunflowers, Irises, Roses, Dahlias and Lillies.

Key elements to take into account when it comes to adding plants to your garden would be, adding compost and fertiliser, making sure it’s planted correctly (obvious, we know) and that it receives plenty of water and sunlight, too.

Cleaning & Maintenance

Finally, it might slip down the pecking order on the ‘to-do’ list, and that’s cleaning gardening equipment.

From digging tools to chippers, they all need to be checked and maintained to prolong their lifespan and work consistently around the garden, such as sharping blades in your lawnmower or chipper – avoiding any annoyance of waiting for parts or nipping to a shop to frantically replace items which could delay those chores.

Even make sure items like your hoses, sprinklers (if you have them) and even watering cans are checked for any slack parts, holes or leaks, just so you’re not caught short, especially when the Summer weather arrives. 

From the Infographic below, the average size of a UK Garden is 188 meters squared. So make sure that you set sections up to focus on during the day or weekend, just so you’re avoiding rushing around or trying to do everything all at once.

Whether you’re pruning, weeding, mulching, planting, or cleaning and maintaining your tools, there’s plenty to keep you busy. By following these tips, you’ll be well on your way to a beautiful and healthy garden that you can enjoy all season long.

Getting into gardening doesn’t have to be something to try when you’re older. 54% of Millennials that start gardening prefer it to going out to nightclubs. But don’t take our word for it, check out our infographic around the different statistics about gardening.

Trees are truly beautiful parts of the natural environment, but they are also wonderfully efficient machines — continuously working to keep the planet healthy. Over 73,000 different species take up over 36% of the earth’s landscape including parks, fields, paths and gardens. You’re bound to come across many of these varieties in your lifetime. If you’re looking to improve your knowledge of these natural giants or are just wondering what trees you may have in your garden, you’ve come to the right place!

There are 7 important characteristics to consider when trying to identify a tree and understanding them will make you a professional tree spotter in no time:

1. Leaves 
2. Bark
3. Flowers
4. Fruit
5. Shape
6. Environment

English, Oak

We start with the most common tree found in the UK – the English Oak tree. Throughout history, Oak trees have been a symbol of royalty, wisdom and strength. Nurturing up to 2,300 wildlife species they provide important spaces for shelter, eating and breeding.

English Oak trees are deciduous, meaning they lose their leaves in Autumn and regrow them in spring. The Oak tree has a very distinctive leaf shape and it’s a great way of identifying it. The leaves are mainly green in the warmer months, longer than wide and feature 5 or 6 deep, rounded lobes. 

Despite their distinctive leaf shape, the best way to identify this tree is to look at its trunk. The bark features deep fissures and ridges that give it a unique scaly look. At the base of the trunk, you may see a variety of moss and fungus growth. 

Around springtime, the English Oak will begin to flower. As the frost-covered branches begin to thaw, long yellow hanging catkins begin to grow. These are the male flowers of the tree and distribute pollen to the environment. The female flowers are small and red and sit on short stalks called peduncles. 

The fruit of the Oak tree is a well-known nut called the Acorn. Acorns don’t grow until the tree reaches around 40 years old and is its most productive from 80-120 years. If the female flowers were pollinated correctly during the summer months, they will begin to grow Acorns. Acorns typically take a year to fully grow and reach maturity after 2 years. The best time to collect these nuts is around Autumn. 

The shape of an Oak tree features a broad, spreading crown with thick branches and a trunk that shortens with maturity to extend its life span. They are most commonly found in central and southern Britain with over 121 million in the UK alone.  

Horse, Chestnut

In 2017, the Horse chestnut tree was voted the UK’s favourite tree. Also known as the Conker tree, it surged ahead of the other contenders, securing more than a quarter of all votes cast. So what makes this tree so popular and how can you identify it?

The Horse Chestnut is another deciduous tree that features unique leaves. Their colour varies from light to dark green and has 5-7 pointed leaflets all connected by a central stem with slightly pointed tips. The trunk of a Horse Chestnut tree is thin and smooth with minimal fissures. 

This tree begins to flower in May and is known as panicle by botanists. 3 to 6 flowers grow on each branch with the branches being longer at the bottom to form a cone-like shape. The flowers are a mix of male and female with the male being at the top and female at the bottom, and those in the middle are mixed. 

At around the age of 12, Horse chestnut trees begin to grow fruit known as conkers. Conkers have been notoriously known throughout history for their part in a classic game for children. They grow when the female flowers have been pollinated and mature throughout autumn and feature a green spiky casing. By winter they will begin to drop and you can find them around the base of the Horse Chestnut tree. 

The shape of the Horse Chestnut is long and upright with minimal spreading. There are around 500,000 in the UK mainly found in parks, gardens, streets and village greens. 

Alder

The Alder tree is native throughout Europe and grows in a variety of habitats across the UK. Its strong trunks thrive in moist, swamp-like environments and can be found near rivers, ponds and lakes.

Its purple leaf buds form on a long stem and once matured long, dark green, leathery leaves grow. These are round in shape with serrated edges. The leaf tip is never pointed and is often indented. Alder trees are broadly conical in shape and have dark and fissured bark. Twigs are light brown with orange spots, and young twigs are sticky.

In early spring, the flowers appear just before the leaves. On the same tree, female and male flowers are born. When the pollen is shed, the male flower turns yellow (about 5-10 cm long). It is a very small purple catkin that will eventually turn into a cone containing seeds. 

Once pollinated by wind, the female catkins gradually become woody and appear as tiny, cone-like fruits in winter. They open up to release their seeds, which are dispersed by wind and water.

Sycamore 

The sycamore tree is a deciduous tree that can grow up to 20-35 metres tall. The sycamore tree is known as one of the fastest-growing trees in North America and Europe. Its branches form a broad, domed crown.

The leaves of a Sycamore tree are very easy to spot as they look very similar to a maple leaf. They grow alternating to each other on branches and have coarse teeth. The underside of the leaves is coated with small, coarse, white hairs and in early autumn the leaves begin to turn yellow and brown as they fall off. A great identifier is a black tar mark that many of the leaves may possess, as they mature the mark will become more pronounced. 

The bark of a young Sycamore is thin and flaky and peels in patches. The mottled appearance gives the tree great camouflage and makes them easy to identify. An older Sycamore’s bark is no longer white however sheds in thick patches. 

Similar to the Horse Chestnut, Sycamore’s flowers grow in panicles with a mix of male and female flowers. The cluster of flowers hang on a long central stem and grow all over the tree’s canopy. 

If you are trying to identify this tree in early Autumn, you will notice its flowers have transformed into a unique fruit known as Samaras. These have two wings that help them disperse through the wind to help the offspring colonise new areas.

Like so many others, I’ve recently been considering going vegan. I’ve done the cliche millennial thing of ordering “beginner vegan cookbooks” (One-Pot Vegan & Five Ingredient Vegan if you’re interested). Moreover, I’ve begun the (painful) process of cutting dairy out of my diet. But, one thing I’ve noticed a lot, is people preaching the importance of organic produce.

Now, if you’re like me and you don’t know your organic oregano from your standard strawberries. Firstly, let’s not mention the painfully high price tag. Secondly, why pay the price when you could grow your own? Ever thought about making your own mulch?

Well, I thought I’d do what we millennials do best and write a blog about it. Keep reading to learn how to grow an organic garden (a beginner’s guide).

Now, let’s cover the bases – what is organic produce? Organic produce avoids “the use of man-made fertilisers, pesticides and growth regulators” which promotes sustainable gardening and organic garden design, according to BBC Goodfood. Moreover, concerning man-made fertilisers and pesticides, I’ll be writing a specific blog on this topic – so keep tuned.

How to grow an organic garden – cover the bases

Why is organic produce so expensive? Well, organic food is cheapest when bought directly from the farmer or producer. But the main reasons for organic produce being more expensive are as follows:

• Higher cost to grow organic produce
• Bigger profit markup for retailers
• Price discrimination, if people are willing to pay it etc – like a 1st class ticket
• Demand rising higher than supply

If you’re wanting to delve deeper into the topic and need some convincing to grow your own (it’s convinced me!) – check out this article. Now, let’s get onto the topic of how to grow an organic garden.

The Significance of Compost in Organic Gardening

One cannot emphasize enough the importance of compost in building a strong organic farming system. By supplying both energy sources and essential nutrients, compost maintains soil biodiversity and helps create a resilient environment.

As found in a study by van der Wurff et al. (2016) [1], when the composting process is well-managed and the input materials are free from contaminants, compost becomes a highly suitable input material for organic farming, fulfilling the system’s ecological requirements.

Organic greenhouse production typically involves high turnover rates of organic matter, substantial inputs of nutrients and energy, and elevated production levels. In these scenarios, compost serves as a crucial source of organic matter and nutrients for greenhouse horticulture and a vital component of growing media for nurseries.

Through providing energy sources and essential nutrients, compost plays an indispensable role in constructing a robust farming system.

What do you need & how do you grow an organic garden

If you’ve read any of my other blogs, you know how important planned planting is – the same applies here. Make a note of what vegetables grow & when so that you can reap what you saw all year long.

Once you’ve done that, there’s no point asking how to grow an organic garden without the proper tools. Here’s what you need:

• Clippers
• Trowel
• Compost Bin
• Garden Gloves
• Watering Can

From there you need to know the quality of your organic soil. Get a Ph soil test, they are easily ordered online. Furthermore, for a minimal cost (and a better result) you can order a sample from your local agricultural extension.

Your next battle will likely be with weeds. How to grow an organic garden with weeds? Well, you can’t. If left unkempt they can hijack light, nutrients and water from your plants.

You’ll reap what you sow and sowing out the weeds will reward you. So, if you have a small patch dig out the weed and the root.

Are weeds whacking you out?

However, if you have a larger plot – don’t bother digging. Picture the scene, you spend the whole day weeding, upturning the soil, only to have those wicked weeds return. No, we can’t have that. Or, you have to use weed killers which involves putting toxic substances next to where you’re wanting to grow your homegrown vegetables.

Do you know what would solve that, mulch. Cut down the weeds to just above the soil (use the trimmings in your mulch!) Then cover the area in mulch that will exclude the light, you can use a variety of materials to do that.

All of which you can use in our mulcher, launching in March. Compact, powerful and perfectly formed – all words used to describe our Forest Master Mulcher. Capable of any workload, you can find one to suit your needs. What goes better with a grow-your-own organic garden than organic mulch? Moreover, with the money you save growing your own, you can reinvest it here! Check ours out!

Furthermore, regarding the mulching process simply top your mulched area with cardboard weighed down with bricks. Don’t use carpet, it contains many toxic dyes), for any other does and don’t check out our mulching blog. Then leave this for a few months and you’re soil is as ready as you are!

How to grow an organic garden without organic plants. How do you find them? Well, your local farmers market is a great place to find seedlings raised free of chemicals, like heirloom seeds, that support eco-friendly gardening. The fewer the blooms the better, try to find stocky plants whose roots aren’t overcrowded.

Reap What You Sow

For the best return, we recommend using raised beds and implementing permaculture principles to maximise the efficiency of your organic garden- here’s a Youtube video explaining raised beds and their benefits. Dwarf varieties of plants are better as they take up less space, they’ll also help reduce overshadowing. The best plants to sow for the best return are:

• Tomatoes
• Pole Beans
• Zucchini
• Swiss Chard
• Tall Sugar Snaps

When asking how to grow an organic garden it’s important to remember water! But, it’s now as simple as pouring water on them – there’s a skill to it! Plants love a watery wake-up call, just as you enjoy your morning mocha. If watered overnight, soil can become damp and increase the risk of fungal issues. A nice brisk morning shower does them the world of good. They have the whole day to dry out, and in the morning there are fewer winds – so they get a better drink. Moreover, make sure when you’re watering them that you water the root.

Positive Predators Protect Plants

Moreover, it’s important to consider protecting positive predators such as frogs, birds and even bats. They’ll keep any pests at bay, but also it’s important to encourage positive insects such as ladybugs to stick around, promoting organic pest control.

Furthermore, a good rule of thumb is to harvest as much as possible! The more you do, the more you’ll get. Moreover, if you’ve got herbs, why not cut them when you need them – that way they’re as fresh as possible.

Now that you know how to grow an organic garden, why not grow a kitchen garden? Here’s a full guide showing you from planning to platting – we’ve got you covered!

We hope this blog has shown you how to grow an organic garden! If it has, let us know below! Already up and running – send us pictures! We’d love to see them. If you’ve got any questions, find us on social media and we’re more than happy to help!

References:

1. van der Wurff, A. W. G., Fuchs, J. G., Raviv, M., & Termorshuizen, A. (2016). Handbook for composting and compost use in organic horticulture. BioGreenhouse. https://doi.org/10.18174/375218

Home composting & mulching is one of the most simplistic and satisfying DIY projects. At first glance, many people believe that making compost is a complex and time-demanding task.

The reality is that the process is very simple and doesn’t require a great deal of work. If you want to explore other misconceptions, check out our blog post on the myths of composting.

Composting is the most beneficial way of recycling, everyone benefits! They don’t call it black gold for nothing.

Paper and cardboard-based materials (brown waste) are essential in creating a healthy compost mix. You can find all about the process of making compost by checking out our composting guide.

Is paper harmful to the soil?

Before diving into the process of adding the waste to your compost mix, let’s cover some of the things you should consider.

In the past, it’s been well-advised not to use glossy, printed or waxed paper within your compost heap. This is because it’s thought that these kinds of paper carry the risk of exposing the soil to harmful chemicals.

Present-day, a lot of these worries are now obsolete as the majority of manufacturers have switched to more earth-conscious methods of creating the paper. A large percentage of the manufacturing companies opt to use water-based inks, vegetable oil and similar organic materials.

Of course, it’s still better to know for sure so it may be best to contact the company or find the information online.

Steps to prepare the Cardboard and Paper for Composting

The first step to preparing the cardboard and paper is to ensure that any sticky tape, labels or plastic is removed. The last thing we want to do is to take time breaking down our materials only to have it be contaminated by microplastics and toxic chemicals.

This next step isn’t entirely necessary but it’s highly recommended as it will greatly increase the decomposition process. You will want to break down any medium-large sized pieces of paper or cardboard into much smaller pieces before being placed into your compost pile.

How to Shred Paper & Cardboard for Compost

This section pretty much comes down to personal preference as well as what tools you have at your disposal. A paper shredder will do the job, but you may struggle manually shredding down cardboard all day long. This is where we (Forest Master) come into play.

Can you shred paper in a wood chipper?

We have designed the perfect machine for composting. Our FM6DD-MULCH is a compact chipper, shredder and mulcher all-in-one machine. This is the first of its kind.

The chipper is capable of processing hard or soft branches, leaves, cardboard, paper and any other garden waste you can think of. You can save on hours of hard work and grinding down materials to use for your garden. Simply switch the machine on and away you go – no effort involved!

Find out about our new, unique and innovative (patent-pending) machine by checking out our latest blog post.

How to add paper and cardboard to your compost pile

There are a few different methods you can use to add your materials to your compost pile, again this is down to personal preference.

Our favourite method is the simple method of filling a compost bin first with a layer of dried leaves in the bottom. We then like to add food waste to the next level and then a layer of browns on top of this (paper and cardboard shreddings).

You need to create a healthy 50:50 mix of alternating layers of green and brown materials.

You can keep adding materials as you, as long as you remember to add a good 50:50 mix, for e.g. if you add a layer of cardboard then make sure you balance it out with a layer of greens (grass clippings etc).

It’s also important that you continue to turn the compost pile every week or so using a pitchfork, this greatly increases the rate of decomposition.

How long does it take for paper and cardboard to break down?

So how long does it take for cardboard to decompose in a garden? This varies depending on several factors such as the size of your compost pile, the aeration and the ratio of materials used. Typically, this process takes around 6 to 8 months before it’s ready to be put to use in your garden.

Going back to previously covered topics, it’s pretty much essential that all cardboard/paper is broken into small pieces as large materials will not be able to decompose anywhere near as quickly. You can also sock the cardboard in water in order to help speed up the process.

If you have any questions or suggestions for other subjects, feel free to leave a comment on this blog and we’d be happy to cover it. Moreover, want to read more of our blog posts? Check out our leaf mould and prepare your garden for winter blogs

Don’t forget to sign up for our email newsletter if you want to find out more information regarding our highly anticipated new and exciting mulching machine. Click here to sign up.

As you probably already know, wood kindling is an essential element of starting an efficient fire. The main job of kindling is to burn the main source of fuel (wood) and to ensure that the fire keeps going after it’s started. If you didn’t already know, you can also use your Forest Master kindling log splitter to split the wood kindling to the right size.

If you have already split and seasoned your logs ready for your log burner this winter, then you probably want to split your kindling as well ahead of time. The last thing you want to be doing is slugging around outside in the snow looking for suitable kindling. Lucky for you, we’re going to teach you the best ways to easily split kindling and the best wood to use.

What wood is best for kindling?

As a general rule, dry softwood timber is the best kind of wood to use for kindling. Pine or Cedar is amongst the best to use as wood kindling because they will easily catch fire, due to their resinous and fibrous character.

You will also want a variety of different sized kindling. Small pieces of kindling will burn very quickly, it’s a good idea to have an assortment of different sizes to add to your fire while it’s underway.

How to split wood into kindling

There are a number of different tools and methods you can use to split kindling. You could choose to either split with an axe or you could opt for a tool or machine which specialises in splitting kindling.

Our range of log splitters, both manual and electric, are able to perform effective kindling splitting tasks while also providing you with incredibly useful and time effective log splitting functions. Split your hardwood fuel for your log burner in just a few seconds without causing any body aches or pains. We like to help you as much as we can through every step of your forestry journey, this is why we’ve also written a blog post guide on effectively cutting firewood from start to finish.

Any of our DuoCut® log splitters are able to efficiently split kindling, simply utilise the ram stop feature of the log splitter to set the pusher blade to a short distance and then tie your wood together using an elastic band or sellotape to split the wood into small wedges. Watch the video below for a demonstration of this technique.

Using an electric log splitter

Not all electric log splitters are capable of performing this task effectively. An important part of splitting kindling effectively is the use of the duocut blade and the ram stop. The ram stop lets you set the ram further forward, this means you’re not waiting the full travel time for the wood to split. I’d recommend also taking a look at our guide for selecting the right power tonnage on your electric log splitter.

The duocut blade also shortens this process by splitting the kindling from both sides at the same time.

If you want to look at a cheaper or manual log splitting option for making your kindling, then look take a look at our smart splitter.

Using a manual log splitter

The Forest Master FMSS Smart Splitter is a manual log splitter which is an easy to use ergonomic alternative to a wood splitting axe that uses a drop weight on a guide pol to impart the force to the splitting blade. The manual splitter comes complete with the ultimate splitting base blade which is the perfect tool for splitting wood kindling and knotty logs.

There are many misconceptions and some confusion around using your own wood for your log burner. The last thing you want to do when loading up your burner for a cold winter night is to find that you only have unseasoned wood. In this blog post, we’ll cover how to correctly season your firewood as well as covering any questions you may have around the process.

Unseasoned wood (fresh cut) holds a very high moisture content, and as you’re trying to start a fire this is not ideal. It makes the fire very hard to get burning and when you finally do manage to get it going, it produces an abundance of smoke.

As well as being a pain to produce fire with, the biggest issue it raises is that it’s also a massive contributor to creosote buildup in chimneys, this can lead to devastating chimney fires.

Seasoning your firewood is essential for creating a safe, clean and efficient fire for heating your home. A good firewood would be a well seasoned log which produces a great heat output while leaving little ash. It will also have been cut down to the right size and length for your log burner or chimney.

Wet firewood leads to difficulty starting a fire, short burn times, low heat output, smoky fires with little flame and many more issues.

What firewood should I use for my log burner?

Typically, you would use whatever wood you have in your property. Although it’s still important to know what you’re splitting, seasoning and using within your fire.

If you have a choice of choosing your firewood, you want logs which produce a high heat output, while leaving a minimal amount of ash and a small amount of smoke. Want to find out how to cut your firewood from start to finish? Check out our comprehensive guide covering felling the tree right down to splitting the wood.

Check out our blog post on wood-burning properties to find out which woods are best for burning as well as how hard particular logs are to split.

In the end it mostly comes down to achieving the right moisture content for your firewood.

Cutting and splitting your wood

Why is it important to split your wood? Splitting your wood provides several benefits.

The main benefit is that cutting the wood to length and splitting it assists in drying (seasoning) the wood. When trees are first chopped down and cut, around half of the wood weight (sometimes more) is water. This makes it incredibly difficult to burn, and if you do manage to start a fire with it then it would mostly just produce an abundance of smoke, rather than any actual heat.

Splitting the wood allows the wood to dry out until the water weight is less than 20%. This allows the wood to burn effectively.

Another reason to split the wood is that the outer bark of the tree essentially protects the insides, keeping the moisture in. Additionally, many species of trees actually have bark which is mostly fire retardant. When you split the wood it makes it much easier for the wood to catch fire since the inside can burn more readily.

So I guess the next question is how do I split my logs? Well, you’re asking the right people. We specialist in log splitting equipment for turning those massive logs into perfectly sized firewood for your log burner.

Check out our guide on picking the right log splitter to find out more.

How long should you season your logs?

Unfortunately, there’s not really a right or definitive answer to this question. Typically, seasoning takes around six months to a year but there are a few processes you can use to speed this up.

The goal is to produce wood to a moisture content under 20%. Splitting wood is the number one way of speeding up the process of seasoning your firewood.

After your wood is split, you will want to expose it to air and sunlight. Log stores are perfect for this as they create an ideal environment for your wood to receive everything they need to season while being kept neatly out of the way. Take a look out our blog post to find out more about why log stores are a great investment as well as our recommendations for purchasing a suitable one.

If you opt to use a shed or barn of sorts, you need to be sure that plenty of air is able to circulate otherwise the firewood will dry very slowly. You should also consider keeping the wood raised off the ground.

When stacking your wood, using whichever method you decide on, be sure to turn the logs bark-side down as you stack them and then turn them bark-side up on the top row. This method is the best way for allowing moisture to escape from the firewood, and the top row will shield the rest of the logs from any moisture coming from above (rain or snow).

How to know when your firewood is seasoned

There are quite a few ways to check your wood to see if it is seasoned, but before we go into them the easiest way to check the moisture content is to invest in a moisture meter. If you want to know if your firewood is seasoned simply insert the moisture meter and if it reads a number below 20 percent then you’re good to go!

Colour is a good visual indicator of seasoned wood. The colour of the wood will fade over time, when you first split the wood it’s likely green. Weight is another way to assess how seasoned a log is. As the wood dries, it will lose its moisture content and become much lighter.

The hardness of the log is another indicator of how seasoned your firewood is. Drying wood becomes much harder and is significantly more difficult to split. It also tends to be stronger and more compressed.

You can also use sound to determine how seasoned a log is. Wet wood produces a dull thud when knocked against another piece. If your firewood is seasoned (dry), it will make a hollow sound when hit together with another piece.

Aside from using a moisture meter, flammability is the ultimate test of how seasoned your firewood is. Green wood (wet) will be incredibly difficult to light and will produce a lot of smoke.

Cutting Firewood

Electric and Petrol log splitters are a game-changing gift when it comes to splitting wood logs. For those who love cutting firewood the old-fashioned way, with a bit of elbow grease and a sharp blade, there are manual splitters available for you to go wild with. But not all of us can spend an afternoon slugging away at hardwoods for fuel for your log burner.

That’s why power tools were invented, and depending on the type of wood you’re planning on splitting and how often you’ll be using it, there are a whole range of log splitters available for you to take the manual work out of it and fill a log bag within an hour.

While splitting a correctly sized log is a walk in the park, there are quite a few steps involved beforehand that people rarely think about that are needed to get that nicely cut log.

This blog post will take you through the processes needed from start to finish to get that perfect wedge of log for your splitter. Read on!

Timber! (Tree Felling)

Unless you’re lucky enough to come across a tree that’s fallen naturally, chances are you’re going to have to fell your own tree in order to get some wood, to create logs.

This shouldn’t be undertaken unless you’re an expert or accompanied by one as this is obviously quite dangerous and if you’re not careful you might end up flat.

Cut a notch about waist height into the tree you’re looking to fell with a chainsaw, and then use something like a tree pusher in order to guide the tree to fall in the direction you want it to.

Just place the top of the tree jack into the notch and wedge it against the ground, then crank it so it’s putting a firm pressure onto the tree. You are not trying to lever the tree down with the tree jack, it is a piece of safety equipment.

Cutting Your Logs To The Correct Length

You’ve got your tree down, but now you need to cut it into log sized lengths that will fit into your log splitter. The best sized logs for the majority of splitters are placed between 14 to 18 inches, and logs this size will also work nicely for burning in your log stove.

There are a few different tips and tricks for quickly measuring out your log size, but the fool-proof method of a tape measure and chalk is probably the best way. Mark out with a line of chalk all the way up the length of your tree with chalk, and then you know exactly where to cut.

There are gizmo’s out there which are essentially a wheel you run along the length of the tree and it will mark out every x amount of inches with a giant splodge of paint, but we really wouldn’t recommend these. Who wants to burn logs with big splodges of paint on?

Prop Up Your Log

Don’t dull your chainsaw blade by dipping it into the dirt every time you cut your log, and definitely don’t cut your log with it propped up on something like another log. While this may be fine for the first couple of cuts, as your giant log gets shorter there is an extremely high chance that it will twist from under the chainsaw and is very dangerous. Do not take the risk.

Use something like a log jack, or bulk log saw to cut your logs with guaranteed safety. There really is no price you can put on safety, and whilst hindsight may be 2020, sawing your leg off doesn’t sound fun to me.

Split Your Logs

There is a certain big brand of log splitters that repeatedly tell people to split logs once they have aged (seasoned) as it will make it easier. This big brand is wrong.

 Seasoning your logs will remove a large amount of moisture from your log, not only making it akin to concrete if you’re splitting a particularly dense hardwood but if you’re trying to split seasoned hardwood, it absorbs pressure before splitting suddenly. This will both increase the chance of damage to your splitter but increase the chance of injury to yourself.

And as I’m sure you’re aware, split logs will season considerably quicker. More surface area -> quicker evaporation. It’s simple science.

If you weren’t aware, you can also use your Forest Master log splitter to split kindling. Take a look at our blog post guide on how to split wood kindling with your log splitter to find out how easy and convenient the process is.

Stick Your Wood In a Log Store

All that’s left to do now is wait for your logs to season before you can use them in your log burner. The best way to do this while preventing mould, damp and infestations is in a log store. If you’re looking for a good one, we have another blog post about our favourites here.

Stack it high, leave your logs to season and once the moisture content is below that 15% threshold, you’re good to use them in your log burner.

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So you’ve just finished up crafting a piece of wood on your workbench (which these clamps are awesome for, by the way) or sawhorse, and now you want to make sure it stands the test of time. This article will explain the various types of wood treatment available, the differences and ultimately how to treat wood. Read on to find out more!

If you want to properly treat your wood, and keep it healthy then it’s very important you use the right products on the right types of wood, and use them at the right time. Failing to do so will leave your efforts useless, and expose your wood to damage, pests such as termites, or even rot. However, if you follow the advice in this guide you can expect to have wood that will pass the test of time and keep looking in good shape. 

There are a number of effective ways in which you can treat your wood, those being oiling it; staining it or painting it. And whilst there is no ‘best’ way of treating your wood, all of these methods will achieve different results and finishes, which leaves it up to you to decide which you would like. 

Oiling Your Wood

Oiling your wood tends to bring out the natural texture of your wood, however may not be considered the most attractive finish depending on the type, grade and cut of your piece of wood. This method is used for sealing the wood without changing the exterior image as much as the others, so depending on whether you like the rugged finish this method may or may not be for you. 

It is important that if you are planning on using oil on your wood, you use flax oil/linseed oil (these are the same, just can be labelled differently) and really work it into the wood so that it is absorbed. A frequent mistake people make when oiling wood is simply dumping the oil on top and allow it to be washed away.  

Staining Your Wood

Staining your wood isn’t vastly different to oiling it in the process performed, as the name may suggest it simply gives a darker, more treated look to the wood which many people prefer. There are different grades of wood stain depending on how dark you want the finished look to be. There is no need to oil your wood before staining it, as it will achieve the same protection without, however you can stain previously oiled wood if you’re looking to change the visuals. Staining wood that has been oiled may even help with the application of the stain, as it will help you put a more even coat over the surface of the wood, however obviously it will prevent as much stain from being absorbed and may need restaining sooner than anticipated. 

Painting Your Wood

Painting your wood negates the need for you to oil or stain your wood, as an even and uncracked layer of wood paint will do just as good a job of preventing moisture getting into the wood and causing damage. It is imperative however that the paint remains uncracked, as obviously any cracks will allow moisture into the wood, breaking the sea and leading to the possibility of damagel. It is possible to paint oiled wood, however we wouldn’t advise it as some paints will not adhere well to the oil. Sand down your wood first using 320-grit sandpaper removing as much of the oil as possible before applying your coat of paint. 

How To Treat Your Wood

Step 1

Wash the wood with warm soapy water, or a jet washer, to remove any debris and small parts from the wood.

Step 2

Sand the wood down to a smooth finish using 250-grit sandpaper, including all hard to reach places such as edges and corners. 

Step 3

Vacuum the wood and wipe down with a dry cloth to get rid of all the debris and particulate matter, leaving a clean and smooth piece of wood.

Step 4

Apply your chosen finish generously and evenly over the surface of the wood, and leave to dry for the amount of time specified on the instructions of your chosen finish. 

Step 5

It is a good idea to wipe down your wood once dried and then reapply a second thinner coat.

Step 6

Wait at least 24 hours for everything to dry, and then enjoy your new finished wood as you please!

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The benefits of compost

Compost is a nutrient-rich material for your garden and vastly improves soil structure, while maintaining moisture levels and keeps your soil’s pH balance in check. It also suppresses plant disease. Moreover, it can be boosted by materials such as mulch.

A good compost provides everything your plants need to grow and remain healthy. It provides nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

The best part about making your own compost is that you make it using waste lying around your house, rather than throwing it away you decompose it to create a rich and incredibly useful product for your garden. It’s recycling at it’s best.

Save money, resources and create a great positive impact on the environment by recycling your waste into compost.

What makes a good compost?

A good homemade compost will comprise of a 50:50 mix off materials that are rich in nitrogen and carbon.

If you create a mix of too much nitrogen you will create a thick green sludge which will be of next to no use. If you create a mix of too much carbon then the process will be far too slow to be useful. The nitrogen to carbon mix must be perfectly balanced in order to create a good compost.

Below is a table of all the different materials to use for your mix. The great thing is that you can find most of these items around the house and it’s typically waste that is simply thrown away.

Materials to use

All you need besides these waste materials is sunlight, air and a good place to store your compost mix.

If you have an abundance on leaves, then you can look at creating a leaf mould. We have a full guide on how to create a leaf mould which you can find by clicking here.

If you have branches and leaves that you want to chip or shred then we recommend taking a look at our compact wood chippers.

The FM6DD and FM4DDE are electric and petrol counterparts which enable you to chip and shred branches and leaves. Perfect for cutting down your leaves and branches to smaller sizes and drastically reducing the time required for them to decay. Perfect for your compost pile.

Click here to view a video of us shredding leaves and other green material.

Creating a compost bin

You can either create your own compost bin or purchase a pre-made one. This guide covers reviews the top 5 bins currently available on the market.

You will want to place your compost bin in a flat, well-drained and sunny place. We do however recommend that it avoids direct afternoon sunlight if you live in a hot climate. It’s also best to place your bin in a convenient location, somewhere that is easy to access and maintain over a couple of months.

When it comes to creating or selecting your compost bin, the size and type of bin you decide on should depend on how much compostable material you are able to generate.

Filling your bin

When starting to fill your compost bin, it’s good to start with a layer of dried leaves in the bottom. This allows for drainage as well as allowing space for air. It’s important not to tightly pack the leaves as this will prevent air passing through effectively.

We like to keep any food waste materials (kitchen scraps) on the next level in a nest of sorts in amongst the leaves. It’s important to keep any food scraps contained/covered up amongst your food pile for a couple of reasons. Mainly, this stops animals from infesting the compost pile and it also prevents the pile from turning into a smelly heap.

It’s also important that you add a layer of browns on top of your food scraps. This allows the compost heap to break down quicker.

The next step is to start creating alternating layers of greens (nitrogen-rich) and browns (carbon-rich) materials. It’s best to adopt this method as a means to create a compost pile which is a close to a 50:50 mix. By doing a layer of each in an alternating fashion we’re ensuring that an equal amount of both materials are being used.

Continue to follow this method until your bin is full.

Maintaining your compost bin

Maintaining a good compost bin is a very easy process and you only need to follow a few simple instructions in order to produce a successful compost.

We strongly recommend mixing/turning the compost occasionally. Some people turn their pile once a week and others every fortnight or so, this is up to you. Personally, we prefer once a week.

Turning the pile helps the breakdown process move along by feeding air to materials which may have previously not been receiving enough. This can also help to eliminate odour.

Whenever you add fresh food waste, be sure to mix it in with lower layers. It’s also important to also cover the waste with an additional layer of brown material. Leaves work best.

All materials within the pile should be moist, it’s usually said that materials should be about as moist as a rung-out sponge.

If your materials are too dry then add water, if the materials are too wet then add more dry materials.

How do I know my compost is ready?

Typically, it’s ready for use after around four to six months of starting your bin. Though this process could take up to 12 months to fully decompose depending on the materials used. It will be a rich, dark and crumbly substance which presents a pleasant earth odour.

When your compost is finished its process, the pile will likely be around half the size and you will no longer be able to distinguish the original items used within the pile.

Another clear indicator is that the mix will have returned to cool air temperature, if the pile is still warm then it’s highly likely that the process is still in the works.

How to use compost

Our #1 favourite use is to make compost tea. Fill an old pillowcase or something similar with around a litre of compost. Tie the top of the pillow cage and steep the bag overnight in a bin filled with water. You can then use the ‘tea’ produced in the bin to water your plants!

We also recommend sprinkling your lawn with compost a few times a year. This provides valuable nutrients to the grass plants.

You can use your compost indoors and outdoors. Mix it up with soil before planting or you can use it as top dressing for your flower beds.

When planting, a common mistake is that people simply add the compost to the hole you’re planting in. Leaving the compost at the bottom of the hole with soil on top. You should be mixing the compost and the soil together.

Try to keep the compost in close proximity to the roots, this allows the roots to pick up the nutrients they need.

If you’re looking for more ideas, why not check out our blog with posts about preparing your garden for winter and mulching mistakes and how to avoid them!