Q: Is it easy to replace wood chipper blades?
A: Yes, it’s very easy to replace wood chipper blades and shouldn’t take too long. Once you’ve done it once, you’ll have no problem doing it in the future.

Q: Where can I buy replacement blades?
A: You can buy replacement blades directly from the Forest Master website at https://forest-master.com/forged-steel-wood-chipper-blades/.

Q: What tools do I need to replace the blades?
A: You will need an impact socket, available on the Forest Master website at https://forest-master.com/hexagonal-impact-socket/ or a similar 16mm socket that has no chamfer at the entrance.

Q: How do I replace the blades?
A: First, open the feed hopper and rotate the drum until you can see the blade. Jam a piece of wood in the drum to stop it from rotating while you work. Using the socket, loosen and remove the two bolts. Clean the face of the drum where the blade sits, using the old blade to scrape away any debris. When fitting the new blade, use a small amount of medium-strength Loctite on the bolts and tighten to a torque of 16nm/12ftlb.

Q: Can both machines chip the same diameter wood?
A: Yes, both machines are capable of chipping the same-diameter wood, up to 50mm (2 inches).

Q: Which machine is better for chipping tree branches?
A: Both the mulcher and chipper are equally good for chipping tree branches using Forest Master machines. However, the mulcher will produce smaller wood chips while the chipper will produce larger ones.

Q: Which machine is better for chipping leafy hedges and green material?
A: A mulcher is better suited for chipping, shredding, and mulching leafy hedges and green material such as vegetable matter.

Q: What should I consider when choosing between a chipper and a mulcher?
A: Consider the type of material you’ll be processing. If you’re primarily chipping tree branches or cuttings with few leaves, a chipper is the best choice. If you’ll be chipping, shredding, and mulching leafy hedges and green material, a mulcher is the better choice.

Q: What are the common reasons why an electric wood chipper may not start?
A: The common reasons include blockages in the drum, an unsecured hopper, blown fuses, and tripped switches.

Q: How can I check if there are blockages in the drum?
A: Remove the black plastic cap from the side of the machine and rotate the outer nut on the end of the shaft. You should be able to spin this using your finger and thumb. If the drum is not moving freely using your finger and thumb, remove the hopper and clear any blockages from the drum, spinning it back and forth to ensure all debris is removed.

Q: What should I do if the hopper is not secured tightly?
A: Ensure that the hopper is secured tightly in place using the bolt. The bolt is a safety mechanism for the chipper so the machine will not start without the bolt being in place and tightened.

Q: How can I reset the trip switch on the motor?
A: The trip switch is a small clear button located beside the ON/OFF switch on the motor. Press/click the button to reset the switch.

Q: What should I do if the troubleshooting steps do not resolve the issue?
A: If the machine still does not start, please don’t hesitate to get in touch with the manufacturer’s customer service for further assistance.

Q: What are the two main reasons why the chipper will not start?
A: The two main reasons are the oil level sensor and the hopper sensor. Ensure that the engine has the correct oil level and that the bolt underneath the hopper is securely screwed into the micro switch.

Q: What can cause the ignition to be cut and prevent start-up?
A: The ignition can be cut due to an incorrect oil level, or an insecure bolt underneath the hopper which is not properly screwed into the microswitch.

Q: How can I find out if the hopper switch or the oil alert is at fault?
A: Temporarily deactivate the wires that connect these sensors. The wires circled in red tell us if the hopper switch is at fault and the wire circled in green tells us if the oil alert is at fault. Disconnect these wires and start the machine. Reconnect the wires, one by one, to find the issue.

Q: What should I do if the troubleshooting steps do not resolve the issue?
A: If the machine still does not start, please don’t hesitate to get back in touch with the manufacturer’s customer service to escalate the issue.

Q: What can cause a leak in the log splitter?
A: Leaks can be caused by various reasons such as damaged seals, loose fittings, or damaged hydraulic components.

Q: How can I locate the source of the leak?
A: Clean the area around the rear of the motor and the log splitter with white spirit and dry it. Dab around the general area of the leak with a kitchen towel which should pick up spots of oil from the source of the leak. It may help to operate the pump.

Q: What should I do after locating the source of the leak?
A: Take photographs of where the leak is coming from and forward them to the manufacturer’s customer service for further diagnosis and solution.

Q: How can I prevent leaks in the log splitter?
A: Regularly check and replace worn-out or damaged hydraulic components, fittings and seals. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the maintenance and use of the log splitter.

Q: What can go wrong with the log splitter that causes no motor power?
A: Some common issues include a blown fuse in the plug, a tripped RCD for the ring main, a blocked fan on the motor, and a power cable with cuts or crimped wire.

Q: What should I do if the plug fuse is blown?
A: Replace it with a working 13 AMP fuse. Also, check that the RCD for the ring main has not tripped.

Q: How do I check if the fan on the motor turns freely?
A: Unplug the log splitter from the mains and remove the black fan cover from the motor. The fan should be able to turn easily with the slightest pressure from one finger right the way around. If you feel any resistance, it’s likely there’s a blockage.

Q: What should I do if there’s a blockage in the fan?
A: Try removing the blockage and then retest the fan by turning it with one finger.

Q: What should I do if the power cable has cuts or crimped wire?
A: Replace the power cable or repair the crimped wire.

Q: What can go wrong with the log splitter that causes low splitting pressure or slow/jittering movement?
A: Some common issues include an unscrewed plastic knob on the end of the lever, uneven ground or a downhill-facing log splitter, low oil level, or a bowed tank.

Q: How do I check if the plastic knob on the end of the lever is fully tightened?
A: Check visually and ensure that the knob is fully screwed in place. Refer to the demonstration link provided in the troubleshooting guide.

Q: What should I do if my log splitter is pointing downhill?
A: Ensure that the log splitter is level, or even better, pointing uphill. Double-check by raising the front of the log splitter on a wood block.

Q: How can I check if the log splitter is low on oil?
A: If you have used the log splitter regularly and have sensed a drop in performance, try raising the front of the log splitter on a block of wood and try splitting logs again. If you experience an increase in splitting performance, it’s likely that the log splitter is low on oil and requires topping up.

Q: What can go wrong with the log splitter ram?
A: There aren’t many things that can go wrong, but a few common issues include obstructions from wood splinters, dislodged plastic spacers, and obstruction from log rails.

Q: How can I check if the valve stem is in contact with the face of the lever?
A: You can check this by visually inspecting the area around the valve stem. Refer to the image of the valve stem attached to the troubleshooting guide.

Q: What should I do if the log rails obstruct the moving carriage?
A: Remove the log rails by removing the screw on either side of each log rail.

Battery Tray – 1
M5x125 Bolt – 2
M5 Nut – 2
Battery – 1
Ignition Key – 2

Attach the battery tray to the underside of the base (42) using the 4 bolts that secure the engine to the base.

Connect the battery wires to the terminals on the battery red to positive (+). Place the battery on the tray and secure using two M5 x 125 bolts and nuts.

Starting the FM6DD or FM6DD-MUL with the Electric Start

1. Ensure that the fuel shut-off valve is in the ‘ON‘ position.
   
2. Move the choke control lever to the ‘CHOKE‘ position (this should only be required if the engine is cold or not starting).
   
3. Move the throttle control lever to the ‘FAST‘ position. Then turn the ignition key to the ‘START‘ position. As soon as the engine starts, allow the key to turn back to the ‘RUN‘ position.
   
4. Move the choke control lever (if used for cold engine) slowly back to the ‘RUN‘ position when the engine is running well.
   
5. If the wood chipper has not been running (cold engine), warm up the engine by running the engine at half throttle for 3-4 minutes, then advance the engine throttle control to the maximum speed.
   

Stopping the chipper

1. Move the throttle lever to ‘IDLE‘.
   
2. Turn the Ignition key to the ‘OFF‘ position.

The core, sleeve and base must be fitted with the o’rings where indicated. To fir the new sleeve and core you will need to remove both log guide rails and the operating lever.

Before fitting the valve sleeve, unscrew the valve base and check that the valve core return spring is correctly sitting in the hole on the inside of the valve base.

Screw the valve base and spring part-way into the endplate, do not screw it in all the way. This allows you to push the sleeve beyond the circlip groove when fitting the circlip.

Insert the valve sleeve (without the valve core) into the endplate, until it is past the circlip groove. The best way to do this is with a pair of circlip pliers but it can be achieved with a small flat-bladed screwdriver.

Once the circlip is correctly seated, screw the valve base fully in then insert the valve core into the valve sleeve. Refit the operating lever and secure with the nut then refit the log guides.