The end of winter is nigh and very soon, it will be a wonderful time of year for garden jobs. The weather is starting to warm up, the evenings are longer as well as lighter, and plants are starting to bloom. It’s the perfect time to get out in your garden and carry out those long-awaited choirs around your space.

Whether you’re an experienced gardener or a beginner, along with approximately 27 million keen others, there are plenty of garden jobs you can do over the spring to get your garden in top shape.

We’ve thought about it here at Forest Master HQ and picked five that we’d suggest you look to do in time for the warmer seasons.

Pruning

Now that we’re well into spring, there is no better time to tackle those pruning jobs around trees, shrubs and other plants around the garden.

This would involve removing any dead or diseased branches or plants and clipping away any outgrowth that’s either crossing over each other or growing in a direction that it shouldn’t be. It’s key not to over-prune as this could result in both damaging and preventing your plant from growing properly.

Weeding

When it comes to weeding, this will be one of the most repetitive jobs you will do around the garden but can easily be managed – depending on the size of your garden. 

It’s key, when it comes to removing weeds, that both plant and root are removed – this prevents them from growing back. 

Using products can also cause harm to your garden, but there are many different resources that offer ways to manage weeding around your space safely, whilst protecting the environment, at the same time.      

Mulching

Mulching may sound like it’s something to go straight into your garden waste bin, but it has its uses that can help create a healthy environment for your plants and trees. 

Sprinkling, mulched wood chips, straw, leaves and even cardboard can help retain moisture and suppress weed growth around your garden, leaving your plants to grow healthy and in fantastic condition over Spring and Summer. 

Best of all, we could help even more with your Mulching by looking here. 

Planting

This is part of Spring that we feel most gardeners will be tackling and focusing on – planting. 

Introducing new flowers, trees, and vegetables will be high on many people’s lists, as well as tidying up, as they almost run to their local garden store to pick out the seeds, pots and packs they will be giving most of their attention to.

There’s plenty to choose from, and it all depends on what mood you’re in or what colour you’d like your garden to focus on. The Nation do have favourites that you could look into such as, Sunflowers, Irises, Roses, Dahlias and Lillies.

Key elements to take into account when it comes to adding plants to your garden would be, adding compost and fertiliser, making sure it’s planted correctly (obvious, we know) and that it receives plenty of water and sunlight, too.

Cleaning & Maintenance

Finally, it might slip down the pecking order on the ‘to-do’ list, and that’s cleaning gardening equipment.

From digging tools to chippers, they all need to be checked and maintained to prolong their lifespan and work consistently around the garden, such as sharping blades in your lawnmower or chipper – avoiding any annoyance of waiting for parts or nipping to a shop to frantically replace items which could delay those chores.

Even make sure items like your hoses, sprinklers (if you have them) and even watering cans are checked for any slack parts, holes or leaks, just so you’re not caught short, especially when the Summer weather arrives. 

From the Infographic below, the average size of a UK Garden is 188 meters squared. So make sure that you set sections up to focus on during the day or weekend, just so you’re avoiding rushing around or trying to do everything all at once.

Whether you’re pruning, weeding, mulching, planting, or cleaning and maintaining your tools, there’s plenty to keep you busy. By following these tips, you’ll be well on your way to a beautiful and healthy garden that you can enjoy all season long.

Getting into gardening doesn’t have to be something to try when you’re older. 54% of Millennials that start gardening prefer it to going out to nightclubs. But don’t take our word for it, check out our infographic around the different statistics about gardening.

Trees are a crucial part of our natural environment, and they provide us with numerous benefits such as shade, oxygen, and a home to animals.

However, just like any living organism, trees have a lifespan, and sadly, due to various reasons, it can lead to them dying. Dead trees can pose significant risks to not just homes, areas and businesses but many, people, which is why it’s key to know how to check and identify what one looks like.

Read on because understanding the silent signs of a dead tree can prevent potential hazards in your environment.

Look for signs of decay

One of the most common signs of a dead tree is decay. Looking for signs of this isn’t as difficult as it may sound.

Inspect the trunk and branches of the tree for any visible signs of holes, cracks, or cavities, along with the branches, as they will show signs of peeling bark, cracks, and wood that is brittle and easily snaps off.

The presence of mushrooms or other fungi growing on the tree is another sign that would indicate that the wood is decaying.

Check the angle of the tree

We all know how the majority of trees are tall and straight but can an angle tell you the health of one? The answer is yes and an easy one to spot if one is dying.

If you see a tree that is leaning or has fallen more than 15 degrees, chances are that it won’t survive. This is caused by either root damage or following a storm that has brought with it strong winds – such as when Storm Arwen hit the UK in 2022.

Check for bark damage

A tree’s bark is another factor in identifying the health of a tree.

If one is in good health, it would produce smooth, unblemished bark with no sign of any infestation from critters. A struggling one would have the opposite effect, with crumbling or fallen bark, that has holes and cracks in them, opening the door for wood-boring insects to damage it further.

Look for dead leaves or branches

Trees that have perished will have branches and leaves that will match the state of the timber – even during a growing season. Check for any branches that have no leaves or have leaves that are brown or discoloured. Dead branches can also be identified by their lack of flexibility; they may be stiff and brittle.

Look for signs of pest infestation

Pests can cause significant damage to trees and can often lead to their death. Look for signs of pest infestation, such as chewed leaves, holes in the trunk or branches, and sawdust around the tree’s base. If you notice any signs of pest infestation, it’s important to get the tree inspected to determine the extent of the damage.

What to do if you spot a dead tree?

If you’ve spotted the signs above and one is in or around your property or public space, it’s vital to get it checked and seen as soon as humanly possible. The next steps for how to deal with it aren’t as complicated as you may think…

Hire a professional arborist

If there’s concern around a tree, it’s best to hire a professional arborist to inspect it. An arborist can identify the signs of a dead tree and recommend the best course of action to try to preserve it or…

Remove the tree

Sadly, If the tree has gone too far past the different stages, it would need to be removed from the area, taking away any danger of it falling near or on property or people.

Plant a new tree

Just because one has been taken down, it doesn’t mean that it can’t be replaced. Consider planting a new one in its place. Take a trip to your local garden centre, and chat with an expert such as an arborist or someone with Plant Nursey experience. It may take a while to fully grow but the long-term benefits would be hugely rewarding for the area and you’d have a choice in which tree you’d like.

In the end, it’s sometimes difficult to sustain the life of a tree but it doesn’t mean that it ends when it does. It could be could practise knowing the different types of trees, in case you wanted to do a like-for-like swap if replanting and making sure that they’d qualify as good wood for log burners.

Trees are truly beautiful parts of the natural environment, but they are also wonderfully efficient machines — continuously working to keep the planet healthy. Over 73,000 different species take up over 36% of the earth’s landscape including parks, fields, paths and gardens. You’re bound to come across many of these varieties in your lifetime. If you’re looking to improve your knowledge of these natural giants or are just wondering what trees you may have in your garden, you’ve come to the right place!

There are 7 important characteristics to consider when trying to identify a tree and understanding them will make you a professional tree spotter in no time:

1. Leaves 
2. Bark
3. Flowers
4. Fruit
5. Shape
6. Environment

English, Oak

We start with the most common tree found in the UK – the English Oak tree. Throughout history, Oak trees have been a symbol of royalty, wisdom and strength. Nurturing up to 2,300 wildlife species they provide important spaces for shelter, eating and breeding.

English Oak trees are deciduous, meaning they lose their leaves in Autumn and regrow them in spring. The Oak tree has a very distinctive leaf shape and it’s a great way of identifying it. The leaves are mainly green in the warmer months, longer than wide and feature 5 or 6 deep, rounded lobes. 

Despite their distinctive leaf shape, the best way to identify this tree is to look at its trunk. The bark features deep fissures and ridges that give it a unique scaly look. At the base of the trunk, you may see a variety of moss and fungus growth. 

Around springtime, the English Oak will begin to flower. As the frost-covered branches begin to thaw, long yellow hanging catkins begin to grow. These are the male flowers of the tree and distribute pollen to the environment. The female flowers are small and red and sit on short stalks called peduncles. 

The fruit of the Oak tree is a well-known nut called the Acorn. Acorns don’t grow until the tree reaches around 40 years old and is its most productive from 80-120 years. If the female flowers were pollinated correctly during the summer months, they will begin to grow Acorns. Acorns typically take a year to fully grow and reach maturity after 2 years. The best time to collect these nuts is around Autumn. 

The shape of an Oak tree features a broad, spreading crown with thick branches and a trunk that shortens with maturity to extend its life span. They are most commonly found in central and southern Britain with over 121 million in the UK alone.  

Horse, Chestnut

In 2017, the Horse chestnut tree was voted the UK’s favourite tree. Also known as the Conker tree, it surged ahead of the other contenders, securing more than a quarter of all votes cast. So what makes this tree so popular and how can you identify it?

The Horse Chestnut is another deciduous tree that features unique leaves. Their colour varies from light to dark green and has 5-7 pointed leaflets all connected by a central stem with slightly pointed tips. The trunk of a Horse Chestnut tree is thin and smooth with minimal fissures. 

This tree begins to flower in May and is known as panicle by botanists. 3 to 6 flowers grow on each branch with the branches being longer at the bottom to form a cone-like shape. The flowers are a mix of male and female with the male being at the top and female at the bottom, and those in the middle are mixed. 

At around the age of 12, Horse chestnut trees begin to grow fruit known as conkers. Conkers have been notoriously known throughout history for their part in a classic game for children. They grow when the female flowers have been pollinated and mature throughout autumn and feature a green spiky casing. By winter they will begin to drop and you can find them around the base of the Horse Chestnut tree. 

The shape of the Horse Chestnut is long and upright with minimal spreading. There are around 500,000 in the UK mainly found in parks, gardens, streets and village greens. 

Alder

The Alder tree is native throughout Europe and grows in a variety of habitats across the UK. Its strong trunks thrive in moist, swamp-like environments and can be found near rivers, ponds and lakes.

Its purple leaf buds form on a long stem and once matured long, dark green, leathery leaves grow. These are round in shape with serrated edges. The leaf tip is never pointed and is often indented. Alder trees are broadly conical in shape and have dark and fissured bark. Twigs are light brown with orange spots, and young twigs are sticky.

In early spring, the flowers appear just before the leaves. On the same tree, female and male flowers are born. When the pollen is shed, the male flower turns yellow (about 5-10 cm long). It is a very small purple catkin that will eventually turn into a cone containing seeds. 

Once pollinated by wind, the female catkins gradually become woody and appear as tiny, cone-like fruits in winter. They open up to release their seeds, which are dispersed by wind and water.

Sycamore 

The sycamore tree is a deciduous tree that can grow up to 20-35 metres tall. The sycamore tree is known as one of the fastest-growing trees in North America and Europe. Its branches form a broad, domed crown.

The leaves of a Sycamore tree are very easy to spot as they look very similar to a maple leaf. They grow alternating to each other on branches and have coarse teeth. The underside of the leaves is coated with small, coarse, white hairs and in early autumn the leaves begin to turn yellow and brown as they fall off. A great identifier is a black tar mark that many of the leaves may possess, as they mature the mark will become more pronounced. 

The bark of a young Sycamore is thin and flaky and peels in patches. The mottled appearance gives the tree great camouflage and makes them easy to identify. An older Sycamore’s bark is no longer white however sheds in thick patches. 

Similar to the Horse Chestnut, Sycamore’s flowers grow in panicles with a mix of male and female flowers. The cluster of flowers hang on a long central stem and grow all over the tree’s canopy. 

If you are trying to identify this tree in early Autumn, you will notice its flowers have transformed into a unique fruit known as Samaras. These have two wings that help them disperse through the wind to help the offspring colonise new areas.

If you’re anything like me, you want to get the absolute most out of any purchase. How about getting into the Olympic spirit by using your sawhorse to practice hurdles? No? Okay then, well lucky for you we’ve got 10 incredible suggestions to get the most out of your sawhorse! Here’s How To Use A Sawhorse – Our Top 10 Surprise Uses

How To Use A Sawhorse: Thou Shall Not Pass!

Ever been sat on a one-man job and watched the client walked into a hazardous area? Wish you had an extra pair of hands? Well if you’re asking how to use a sawhorse, why not use it to block an area off. Whether you’ve got one or several sawhorses going spare – use a rope to create barriers. That way your handy horses will keep you and those around you safe!

Air Your Laundry (or materials)

Ever found yourself caught out on a job, pop some planks in between your Sawhorses, and before you know if – you’ve got a drying rack! Whether it’s a piece of art or pieces of trim – these will see you through. Likewise, while you’re maximizing your sawhorse – why not maximize your time! Use it as a work surface to get the best return possible.

Table for 2, 3 or 4 and so many more!

In case you hadn’t already realized, space can be quite tight on a job! Consequently, you’re at the mercy of the facilities provided by the client or company. Whereas this wouldn’t be a worry with a sawhorse. No, the portable pals have so many purposes – including a place to eat! In fact, a simple piece of plywood sees it go from a tool to a table!

Summary

Ultimately, these three simple tips can help your sawhorse into a drying rack, a table, or even turn people away! Which one of these had you not thought of before?

Chop, Chop, Chop with your Sawhorse

Ultimately, if you used it as an Air dryer – you may not have thought of this – a cutting board! Nevertheless, by putting smaller pieces of wood under a larger one – you’ve got your own cutting board! If you’ve ever wondered how to use a sawhorse to make furniture – well here’s your answer!

Stand Tall(er)

If you’re like me and you’re not 6 foot 4″ tall (where my 5 foot 10″ squad at) you might need a step (or two). Again, this is where another of my How To Use A Sawhorse suggestion comes in. Simply ensure that it’s on level ground to prevent it from tipping.

How To Use A Sawhorse: A Portable Workbench

If you’ve ever wondered whether you need a workbench or a sawhorse (we’ve got a blog for that, click here) – look no further. If you’re looking for other ways on how to use a sawhorse – use it as a portable workbench! By using two or more sawhorses and a piece of plywood – you’ve got a portable workbench! In fact, by securing clamps to both ends, you’ll be able to sand and varnish!

Summary

Now that you’ve read those three suggestions too, aren’t you glad you clicked this article! Whether it’s building your own chair, sanding down wood, or reaching for the stars (or the ceiling) – a sawhorse will help.

Keep the crown tools safe!

A clean workspace is a clean mind, let’s not clutter it up with tools scattered around the floor. Whether it’s saving yourself & your back lifting heavy materials. Or, how about ensuring you, your client, or your colleagues don’t trip over tools and break their necks (no one wants that)! A sawhorse can provide a good alternative to leaving tools around on a job!

How To Use A Sawhorse: Prop up the Party

We all know how long and tiring the workday can be, but you know what isn’t? Your favorite radio channel. Never suffer through a long day in silence ever again! Play the music you love all day and get your job finished your way!

A Person’s Best Friend!

Similarly, it’s not just the music that it can prop up! These horses are designed with tight spaces in mind so if you’re fitting pipes or other complex things – they’ll see you through!

Summary

As you can see, sawhorses aren’t just crucial for keeping your work going – they can help with morale too! Imagine a hard days graft without the music – not fun.

A Bit Of Everything!

In conclusion, a sawhorse is an incredible all-around piece of kit designed to streamline your DIY needs. Whether it’s helping you gain a few inches (every little helps!) or providing an easy place to eat dinner on the go – you need a sawhorse. Likewise, never worry about being trapped in one space ever again; they’re portable, precise, and perfect for any and all DIY needs. So, if you’ve ever wondered how to use a sawhorse – we’ve cracked the code!

Have you thought of other uses that we’ve missed off, let us know below! I think still using them to practice hurdles is a sure-fire way to secure Olympic glory. If you’ve decided you need a sawhorse in your life – check out our full range of them here.

Moreover, if you have thought of something we’ve missed (I’d be impressed if you have!), tag us on social media! We’re on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and YouTube; tag us for a chance to be a feature on our socials!

Like so many others, I’ve recently been considering going vegan. I’ve done the cliche millennial thing of ordering “beginner vegan cookbooks” (One-Pot Vegan & Five Ingredient Vegan if you’re interested). Moreover, I’ve begun the (painful) process of cutting dairy out of my diet. But, one thing I’ve noticed a lot, is people preaching the importance of organic produce.

Now, if you’re like me and you don’t know your organic oregano from your standard strawberries. Firstly, let’s not mention the painfully high price tag. Secondly, why pay the price when you could grow your own? Ever thought about making your own mulch?

Well, I thought I’d do what we millennials do best and write a blog about it. Keep reading to learn how to grow an organic garden (a beginner’s guide).

Now, let’s cover the bases – what is organic produce? Organic produce avoids “the use of man-made fertilisers, pesticides and growth regulators” which promotes sustainable gardening and organic garden design, according to BBC Goodfood. Moreover, concerning man-made fertilisers and pesticides, I’ll be writing a specific blog on this topic – so keep tuned.

How to grow an organic garden – cover the bases

Why is organic produce so expensive? Well, organic food is cheapest when bought directly from the farmer or producer. But the main reasons for organic produce being more expensive are as follows:

• Higher cost to grow organic produce
• Bigger profit markup for retailers
• Price discrimination, if people are willing to pay it etc – like a 1st class ticket
• Demand rising higher than supply

If you’re wanting to delve deeper into the topic and need some convincing to grow your own (it’s convinced me!) – check out this article. Now, let’s get onto the topic of how to grow an organic garden.

The Significance of Compost in Organic Gardening

One cannot emphasize enough the importance of compost in building a strong organic farming system. By supplying both energy sources and essential nutrients, compost maintains soil biodiversity and helps create a resilient environment.

As found in a study by van der Wurff et al. (2016) [1], when the composting process is well-managed and the input materials are free from contaminants, compost becomes a highly suitable input material for organic farming, fulfilling the system’s ecological requirements.

Organic greenhouse production typically involves high turnover rates of organic matter, substantial inputs of nutrients and energy, and elevated production levels. In these scenarios, compost serves as a crucial source of organic matter and nutrients for greenhouse horticulture and a vital component of growing media for nurseries.

Through providing energy sources and essential nutrients, compost plays an indispensable role in constructing a robust farming system.

What do you need & how do you grow an organic garden

If you’ve read any of my other blogs, you know how important planned planting is – the same applies here. Make a note of what vegetables grow & when so that you can reap what you saw all year long.

Once you’ve done that, there’s no point asking how to grow an organic garden without the proper tools. Here’s what you need:

• Clippers
• Trowel
• Compost Bin
• Garden Gloves
• Watering Can

From there you need to know the quality of your organic soil. Get a Ph soil test, they are easily ordered online. Furthermore, for a minimal cost (and a better result) you can order a sample from your local agricultural extension.

Your next battle will likely be with weeds. How to grow an organic garden with weeds? Well, you can’t. If left unkempt they can hijack light, nutrients and water from your plants.

You’ll reap what you sow and sowing out the weeds will reward you. So, if you have a small patch dig out the weed and the root.

Are weeds whacking you out?

However, if you have a larger plot – don’t bother digging. Picture the scene, you spend the whole day weeding, upturning the soil, only to have those wicked weeds return. No, we can’t have that. Or, you have to use weed killers which involves putting toxic substances next to where you’re wanting to grow your homegrown vegetables.

Do you know what would solve that, mulch. Cut down the weeds to just above the soil (use the trimmings in your mulch!) Then cover the area in mulch that will exclude the light, you can use a variety of materials to do that.

All of which you can use in our mulcher, launching in March. Compact, powerful and perfectly formed – all words used to describe our Forest Master Mulcher. Capable of any workload, you can find one to suit your needs. What goes better with a grow-your-own organic garden than organic mulch? Moreover, with the money you save growing your own, you can reinvest it here! Check ours out!

Furthermore, regarding the mulching process simply top your mulched area with cardboard weighed down with bricks. Don’t use carpet, it contains many toxic dyes), for any other does and don’t check out our mulching blog. Then leave this for a few months and you’re soil is as ready as you are!

How to grow an organic garden without organic plants. How do you find them? Well, your local farmers market is a great place to find seedlings raised free of chemicals, like heirloom seeds, that support eco-friendly gardening. The fewer the blooms the better, try to find stocky plants whose roots aren’t overcrowded.

Reap What You Sow

For the best return, we recommend using raised beds and implementing permaculture principles to maximise the efficiency of your organic garden- here’s a Youtube video explaining raised beds and their benefits. Dwarf varieties of plants are better as they take up less space, they’ll also help reduce overshadowing. The best plants to sow for the best return are:

• Tomatoes
• Pole Beans
• Zucchini
• Swiss Chard
• Tall Sugar Snaps

When asking how to grow an organic garden it’s important to remember water! But, it’s now as simple as pouring water on them – there’s a skill to it! Plants love a watery wake-up call, just as you enjoy your morning mocha. If watered overnight, soil can become damp and increase the risk of fungal issues. A nice brisk morning shower does them the world of good. They have the whole day to dry out, and in the morning there are fewer winds – so they get a better drink. Moreover, make sure when you’re watering them that you water the root.

Positive Predators Protect Plants

Moreover, it’s important to consider protecting positive predators such as frogs, birds and even bats. They’ll keep any pests at bay, but also it’s important to encourage positive insects such as ladybugs to stick around, promoting organic pest control.

Furthermore, a good rule of thumb is to harvest as much as possible! The more you do, the more you’ll get. Moreover, if you’ve got herbs, why not cut them when you need them – that way they’re as fresh as possible.

Now that you know how to grow an organic garden, why not grow a kitchen garden? Here’s a full guide showing you from planning to platting – we’ve got you covered!

We hope this blog has shown you how to grow an organic garden! If it has, let us know below! Already up and running – send us pictures! We’d love to see them. If you’ve got any questions, find us on social media and we’re more than happy to help!

References:

1. van der Wurff, A. W. G., Fuchs, J. G., Raviv, M., & Termorshuizen, A. (2016). Handbook for composting and compost use in organic horticulture. BioGreenhouse. https://doi.org/10.18174/375218

What this article includes:

• What is no dig gardening?
• Why use the no dig method of gardening?
• Does no dig gardening work?
• How to make a no dig vegetable garden

What Is No Dig Gardening?

I must admit, concepts such as mulching, and no-dig gardening escaped me. Then, I came upon the YouTube channel of one Charles Dowding, vegetable wizard of Homeacres, I was as confused as you are.

And the more and more content I consumed on this alien method of gardening, the more bizarre it seemed.

To put a complex topic in a simplified manner (of which it is it is hugely simplified), no-dig is growing plants in compost on top of the naturally occurring soil.

It’s often seen as the more organic way of growing your vegetables, as it leaves the natural life and flora that exists in the soil alone rather than tilling up their home.

Seem strange? I thought so too.

But the more and more I read and watch, the more people advocate for this method.

It’s easier to harvest and weed growth (if done correctly) is almost non-existent.

Read on to find out more!

Why Use The No Dig Method?

The first question you’re probably asking yourself is why I should consider using the no dig method of gardening?

Why take the risk?

Because ultimately, it is a risk. If it doesn’t pan out, then you’ve lost a lot of valuable time that could have been put to better use.

However, that being said, if done correctly no dig gardening is a huge time saver.

No weed growth

So the method of starting out in no dig involves covering the area in which you plan on sowing your crops to kill everything underneath.

Most commonly using cardboard (as it will eventually break down and feed nutrition back into the soil) but this really can be just about anything.

I’ve heard stories of people using wood chips and carpets/rugs too at this stage. The idea is simply to block out all light so that the greenery underneath is deprived, eventually killing it off.

Obviously, it goes without saying that you don’t want to use anything that’s going to be detrimental to the health of your soil (ink, chemicals etc.).

No disturbing the soil

By using no dig gardening, you’re not having to till or completely remove the topsoil, which has two effects.

Firstly, all that initial work you’d have to put in is completely removed, which saves you at least a day but probably more depending on the size of your allotment.

Additionally, if you’re not digging into the soil then you’re not disturbing all that microbial life that is currently in the soil.

It’s these organisms that break down matter and spread nutrition throughout your compost/soil and are integral to both good soil health and good plant health.

And since your soil (under the compost) hasn’t been loosened, your plants will have a much better base in which to anchor themselves.

Easier to harvest

This method allows for easier harvest of crops, as they will all be growing in the compost.

This is particularly useful for root vegetables, as you don’t have to spend time digging them out and replacing the soil. It really is as simple as just giving them a gentle tug.

Since they’re so close to the surface, crops such as leeks will have a much shorter root section (the white bit at the bottom), which in my opinion is nicer but that’s a personal choice.

Any weeds are easier to spot and remove

Perhaps the most advantageous (and my personal reason for trying a no dig method) is the seriously reduced number of weeds you get throughout the growing season.

It all pertains to that first period in which you blocked out the sunlight for the topsoil, before laying your compost. This killed off all the grasses and the majority of weeds that are going to cause you issues.

Perennial weeds may still occasionally pop through as they can be quite tough, but if you just move them as far down as you can comfortably get they’ll die off pretty quickly, and really don’t cause much of a problem.

Improved soil structure

The soil structure itself is much better, as the natural pathways and tunnels that have been dug by earthworms and small organisms haven’t been destroyed.

This leads to not only better drainage, which is critically important, but also allows the roots to grow easier, giving the plant more resources to funnel into the actual growing of vegetables, which is really what it’s all about!

Better moisture retention

Finally (but in no way redundant) you’ll have much better moisture retention. The topsoil will be shaded throughout the season, especially so if you took the advice contained in our blog on uses for your wood chips and used wood chips to provide additional shade to the top layer of soil. The wood chips are able to absorb water whilst providing shade, regulating moisture levels and preventing the need to water quite so often.

For some climates, this doesn’t make that much difference, but if you’re growing in particularly hot climates then this can be a big advantage that you might want to make note of.

Does No Dig Gardening Work?

So, I suppose this is the million-dollar question, as up until this point it does sound a little too good to be true, doesn’t it?

The general consensus is yes, with previously mentioned Wizard Charles devoutly advocating for it, but it’s not without its flaws

In order to get set up with the no dig method, you’re going to need compost. A hell of a lot of compost.

Maybe this much compost?

For a standard 8 foot by 4-foot bed, you’re going to need at least 600 litres, but chances are for optimal results, even more than that. (The best option is probably to make your own, saving you valuable money – find out how to make your own compost at home here)

So depending on how many beds you have, and the size of your allotment, you may be forking out a lot of upfront costs just to get things ready, if you’ve not made your own compost.

And that’s not even mentioning the work that goes into actually getting all that compost there.

It may not be so bad if you can park your vehicle next to where you’ll be using it, but if you have even a small walk to get to your beds, then you’re in for a bad time.

And for the most part, people who use no dig opt to build raised beds in order to keep all your compost in one place or risk it blowing all over your garden.

You can build these yourself for pretty cheap, and they don’t have to be anything flash. But once again, it’s time spent preparing your beds.

You have to prepare your growing area well ahead of time, we’re speaking at least 3 months to get the majority of growth to die off beforehand (though arguably this is up for contention, as some very experienced horticulturalists say you can go straight into it, but I wouldn’t advise that).

And this can take anywhere up to a year for all the weeds and grasses to die off, perennials are particularly irksome.

And, though I can’t attest to this myself, a study published in 1947 trialled the no dig and reported that there was a significant drop in the fertility of beds after around 5 years, though I’ve not heard this from anybody else so make of that what you will.

How To Make a No Dig Vegetable Garden

So, if you’re going ahead with a no dig garden, below are the steps you need to follow to get you started.

• Mark Your Area

If you’re using raised beds, then this step is going to be pretty obvious. Even so, marking out the area you’re going to be using for no dig gardening is a crucial first step so you know where to lay your cardboard or mulch down.

If you’re not using a raised bed, then using pegs and string is the easiest method I’ve found for this Simply stake in the four corners of your bed, and then tie a string across so you can recognize the boundary easily.

Pick your spot carefully, you want to avoid areas that are likely to be mostly shaded. 6 hours of sunlight is the least we’d recommend.

• Gather Your Materials

You’re going to need roughly 1.5x the size of your marked area worth of cardboard so that you can overlap the edges and make sure there are no gaps in your layer.

You’re also going to need enough compost so that you can spread a 5-6cm layer across the whole area (told you it was a lot).

• Lay Down Your Cardboard

Spread your cardboard out over your future bed, making sure there are no gaps. It’s best practice here to overlay edges to prevent weeds from finding the gaps and growing through.

Once all your cardboard is laid, water it heavily to both help it stays in place, and to begin the process of allowing it to break down. I’d also secure the edges with stones/stakes/whatever else you have at hand just to keep everything secure and in place.

Obviously, if you’re creating a raised bed, then put your frame on top of the cardboard.

• Compost It!

Now’s the time to put your compost on top. If in doubt you don’t have enough, always add more. It’s better to have too much, than too little.

Firm down the compost once it’s all layered on, and then water.

This is your bed complete. You can plant straight into this, but personally, I’ve always given it some time to settle in and let the weeds die off a bit. That’s up to you.

And don’t forget, the best way to plant is to propagate, not direct sow. But that’s a whole different article.

Hope you’ve enjoyed this post, check out some of our others here and don’t forget to comment with your experience of no dig gardening, we’d love to see photos of your allotments and gardens.

So you’re looking at getting an allotment, or perhaps you already have one, and now you need to know what it takes to seed your own vegetable garden.

There’s nothing more fruitful than growing your own veg (excuse the pun) and the satisfaction you get from watching your seedlings grow and flourish under your supervision is something special.

And rather unsurprisingly, requests for allotments have more than doubled since the start of lockdown, so it’s clear to see the effect that getting outdoors does for your mental!

This blog post will quickly and easily outline what you need to do to get your very own vegetable garden up and running in no time, using proven methods we ourselves have used.

We break it down to make it easy, removing the stress and second guessing from seeding your own vegetable garden.

Ready to go? Read on!

Mark out the area you want to grow in

First things first, mark out the whole area that you’re planning to use for your veg garden.

In my experience, people most commonly go for about 8/12 foot x 4 foot, but the dimensions are completely up to you.

Just bear in mind that plants sometimes need more space than you’d expect, and it’s better to go bigger and leave some unused than to realise you suddenly don’t have enough space.

If you’re a beginner, start small and manageable – but still mark out all the areas. Those you’re planning on using next season can be covered to kill grass and weeds making it a much simpler job when you do come to use it.

Once you’ve figured out where you’re putting your patch, mark it out with bamboo poles and string.

This means when it comes to doing the next step, you can keep your lines nice and straight, keeping a pleasant aesthetic.

Digging Your Patch

The idea here is that you want to remove as much of the grass and weeds as you possibly can, and depending on how quick you want your vegetable patch up and running there are two different ways of doing this.

You can either take off the topsoil, which is about the depth of a spade, cut it into strips (as it’s fairly heavy) and remove it.

The key here is getting rid of anything that’s going to interfere with the growing of your vegetables, so be thorough and take your time to remove any weeds/stones.

All the effort you’re putting in now to prepare your garden properly is all in the name of a bountiful harvest, and it’s definitely worth it.

Remember – roots are significantly lighter than that soil (obviously) so just by sifting your fingers through you’ll be able to bring up a good number of roots to the surface.

Soil Treatment

Disclaimer: Some people advocate for sending your soil off for a pH sample, but we personally think that’s unnecessary and skip it – if you want to though, go right ahead.

So you’ve removed the topsoil from the eventual garden bed, but the soil that is there currently isn’t going to be suitable for growing vegetables in – you need to do some soil treatment first.

Churn up the soil to aerate it whilst mixing in some good quality compost (you can find a guide to making your own here) to get some nutrition for your plants into the soil.

This is a hotly discussed topic in the  gardening community – many say not to till the soil as it destroys the natural composition of the soil.

Some gardeners prefer to just fill the bed with a mix of potting soil and compost in which they sow their plants.

A lot of it is personal preference, this is your garden and there isn’t one surefire way doing things. Experiment, and find out what works for you.

Choose Your Spot Carefully

If you’re lucky enough to be able to choose where your allotment is situated (which I know many people are not) then choose carefully and consider outside factors which may affect how well your plants grow.

For example, try to avoid allotments that are at the bottom of a hill (particularly if you live in damper climates such as the UK).

Being at the bottom of an incline will cause water to run down, potentially waterlogging your crops and causing stunted growth – if not outright destroying your plants.

Another factor to consider is how far away your water source/shed/parking is.

With any luck, you’ll eventually be lugging a large number of crops to your vehicle, and you don’t want to have to carry them further than necessary if it can be avoided!

Finally, make sure you plan your allotment and where you’re going to plant things before you actually do it.

This way, you’ll be able to maximise space and efficiency, getting more out of a single planting season through either succession planting or by multi-sowing crops.

And remember – gardening and cultivating is extremely therapeutic, make sure to have fun while you’re doing it. Before long, your vegetable patch will be looking like this!

Doing my best to avoid the winter is coming reference, winter is almost here and there’s plenty of work to be done in ensuring that your garden is fully prepared for the winter ahead.

As annual vegetables are coming towards the end of their lifespan and frosts are taking hold, it’s easy to take a break from your garden for the winter and come back to it in the spring. Take it from someone who makes the same mistake most years, this is never the mentality to take.

When spring finally comes back around there’s no better feeling than being ready for the year ahead with a large part of the effort already taken care of. Read on to find out all the hints and tricks, including how mulch could help fight the freeze and save your plants this winter.

Remove all of the spent vegetable plants

Perhaps one of the most important garden tasks going into the winter is removing all of this years vegetable plants. The very last thing you want to do is leave the plants to rot in decay, leaving a multitude of potential issues for the next year of growing.

Disease and pest populations will be very grateful to you if you choose to leave your old plants through the winter.

It’s essential that all vegetable plants are pulled and cleared from the garden pretty much as soon as they begin to die. You also have the added benefit of reusing the old plants by burying them into your garden. When burying old plants into your garden you are providing great organic matter to your soil which greatly improves the overall health.

Cover your garden soil

Another classic mistake is leaving the soil bare throughout all the elements of the winter. If left exposed, the winter will erode pretty much any valuable garden soil as well as allowing weeds lie in wait for the spring.

If possible, covering the entire garden with a cover crop will leave your garden ready and in the perfect condition coming out of winter.

While a cover crop is the ideal scenario, this isn’t feasible for a lot (majority) of people. Not too worry though, there are alternatives! Most people actually just choose to simply cover their garden soil with a large tarp. Another method is to cover the garden in a thick layer of leaves.

Whatever method you choose, I promise you will see the benefits come spring! Need some inspiration – check out our blog on mulching cardboard and paper

Add Berry Patches

While obviously not an essential step to preparing your garden for winter; it’s fun all the same and helps it feel a lot less doom and gloom! Keep the joy of growing rolling right through winter with berry patches.

The first step to preparing you berry patch is to decide what type of berries you want to grow. You can have a variety of raspberries, strawberries, blackberries and blueberries or just focus on your favorite few.

If you’re looking for an easy plant, strawberry plants are by far the easiest to plant and grow. Simply plant them in a good quality compost and cover the roots. Water them as standard and away you go.

Planting berry bushes is a little trickier and some require different soils so it’s best to do your research before advancing forward.

Winter Garden Maintenance

Now lets cover a few maintenance top tips which will help you keep your garden healthy during the winter.

Turn off any water supplies

Before it gets frosty, it’s crucial that you remember to turn off any watering systems. You can easily avoid any hose or tap malfunctions by ensuring that there are no drips or leaks before the frost sets in.

Look after your winter garden friends

Now that your garden is all set for winter and prepared for the cold; don’t forget to look after your garden helpers. Give birds a good feeding routine, water and a bird bath to help maintain the garden wildlife.

Another good way to keep a wildlife friendly garden is to compost. Check out our blog posts on composting to find out more about all the benefits as well as how to get started making your own compost pile.

Mulch your garden

This ties in with covering your garden soil but it’s so beneficial that we couldn’t resist adding it in again. Creating a mulch to cover your soil over the winter is one of the best things you can do for your garden.

The best way to create a mulch is to take all your fallen leaves from the autumn and place them through a mulcher / shredder. You can then leave them to rot. Check out our blog post on how to create a leaf mould from scratch.

A good healthy leaf mould protects your winter garden from weeds and provides invaluable nutrients to the soil, plants, vegetables and flowers.

We hope this blog has helped you, want to read more? Check out our guide on how to make your own compost!

Home composting & mulching is one of the most simplistic and satisfying DIY projects. At first glance, many people believe that making compost is a complex and time-demanding task.

The reality is that the process is very simple and doesn’t require a great deal of work. If you want to explore other misconceptions, check out our blog post on the myths of composting.

Composting is the most beneficial way of recycling, everyone benefits! They don’t call it black gold for nothing.

Paper and cardboard-based materials (brown waste) are essential in creating a healthy compost mix. You can find all about the process of making compost by checking out our composting guide.

Is paper harmful to the soil?

Before diving into the process of adding the waste to your compost mix, let’s cover some of the things you should consider.

In the past, it’s been well-advised not to use glossy, printed or waxed paper within your compost heap. This is because it’s thought that these kinds of paper carry the risk of exposing the soil to harmful chemicals.

Present-day, a lot of these worries are now obsolete as the majority of manufacturers have switched to more earth-conscious methods of creating the paper. A large percentage of the manufacturing companies opt to use water-based inks, vegetable oil and similar organic materials.

Of course, it’s still better to know for sure so it may be best to contact the company or find the information online.

Steps to prepare the Cardboard and Paper for Composting

The first step to preparing the cardboard and paper is to ensure that any sticky tape, labels or plastic is removed. The last thing we want to do is to take time breaking down our materials only to have it be contaminated by microplastics and toxic chemicals.

This next step isn’t entirely necessary but it’s highly recommended as it will greatly increase the decomposition process. You will want to break down any medium-large sized pieces of paper or cardboard into much smaller pieces before being placed into your compost pile.

How to Shred Paper & Cardboard for Compost

This section pretty much comes down to personal preference as well as what tools you have at your disposal. A paper shredder will do the job, but you may struggle manually shredding down cardboard all day long. This is where we (Forest Master) come into play.

Can you shred paper in a wood chipper?

We have designed the perfect machine for composting. Our FM6DD-MULCH is a compact chipper, shredder and mulcher all-in-one machine. This is the first of its kind.

The chipper is capable of processing hard or soft branches, leaves, cardboard, paper and any other garden waste you can think of. You can save on hours of hard work and grinding down materials to use for your garden. Simply switch the machine on and away you go – no effort involved!

Find out about our new, unique and innovative (patent-pending) machine by checking out our latest blog post.

How to add paper and cardboard to your compost pile

There are a few different methods you can use to add your materials to your compost pile, again this is down to personal preference.

Our favourite method is the simple method of filling a compost bin first with a layer of dried leaves in the bottom. We then like to add food waste to the next level and then a layer of browns on top of this (paper and cardboard shreddings).

You need to create a healthy 50:50 mix of alternating layers of green and brown materials.

You can keep adding materials as you, as long as you remember to add a good 50:50 mix, for e.g. if you add a layer of cardboard then make sure you balance it out with a layer of greens (grass clippings etc).

It’s also important that you continue to turn the compost pile every week or so using a pitchfork, this greatly increases the rate of decomposition.

How long does it take for paper and cardboard to break down?

So how long does it take for cardboard to decompose in a garden? This varies depending on several factors such as the size of your compost pile, the aeration and the ratio of materials used. Typically, this process takes around 6 to 8 months before it’s ready to be put to use in your garden.

Going back to previously covered topics, it’s pretty much essential that all cardboard/paper is broken into small pieces as large materials will not be able to decompose anywhere near as quickly. You can also sock the cardboard in water in order to help speed up the process.

If you have any questions or suggestions for other subjects, feel free to leave a comment on this blog and we’d be happy to cover it. Moreover, want to read more of our blog posts? Check out our leaf mould and prepare your garden for winter blogs

Don’t forget to sign up for our email newsletter if you want to find out more information regarding our highly anticipated new and exciting mulching machine. Click here to sign up.

As you probably already know, wood kindling is an essential element of starting an efficient fire. The main job of kindling is to burn the main source of fuel (wood) and to ensure that the fire keeps going after it’s started. If you didn’t already know, you can also use your Forest Master kindling log splitter to split the wood kindling to the right size.

If you have already split and seasoned your logs ready for your log burner this winter, then you probably want to split your kindling as well ahead of time. The last thing you want to be doing is slugging around outside in the snow looking for suitable kindling. Lucky for you, we’re going to teach you the best ways to easily split kindling and the best wood to use.

What wood is best for kindling?

As a general rule, dry softwood timber is the best kind of wood to use for kindling. Pine or Cedar is amongst the best to use as wood kindling because they will easily catch fire, due to their resinous and fibrous character.

You will also want a variety of different sized kindling. Small pieces of kindling will burn very quickly, it’s a good idea to have an assortment of different sizes to add to your fire while it’s underway.

How to split wood into kindling

There are a number of different tools and methods you can use to split kindling. You could choose to either split with an axe or you could opt for a tool or machine which specialises in splitting kindling.

Our range of log splitters, both manual and electric, are able to perform effective kindling splitting tasks while also providing you with incredibly useful and time effective log splitting functions. Split your hardwood fuel for your log burner in just a few seconds without causing any body aches or pains. We like to help you as much as we can through every step of your forestry journey, this is why we’ve also written a blog post guide on effectively cutting firewood from start to finish.

Any of our DuoCut® log splitters are able to efficiently split kindling, simply utilise the ram stop feature of the log splitter to set the pusher blade to a short distance and then tie your wood together using an elastic band or sellotape to split the wood into small wedges. Watch the video below for a demonstration of this technique.

Using an electric log splitter

Not all electric log splitters are capable of performing this task effectively. An important part of splitting kindling effectively is the use of the duocut blade and the ram stop. The ram stop lets you set the ram further forward, this means you’re not waiting the full travel time for the wood to split. I’d recommend also taking a look at our guide for selecting the right power tonnage on your electric log splitter.

The duocut blade also shortens this process by splitting the kindling from both sides at the same time.

If you want to look at a cheaper or manual log splitting option for making your kindling, then look take a look at our smart splitter.

Using a manual log splitter

The Forest Master FMSS Smart Splitter is a manual log splitter which is an easy to use ergonomic alternative to a wood splitting axe that uses a drop weight on a guide pol to impart the force to the splitting blade. The manual splitter comes complete with the ultimate splitting base blade which is the perfect tool for splitting wood kindling and knotty logs.